"I’m not certain the cuisine was ever as good as its reputation, in part because the people who have consumed, evaluated, and admired it likely weren’t sober enough at the time of ingestion to know what they were eating. The food can be praised for distinctiveness and historical significance, both noteworthy, but the restaurants were going in the wrong direction before the hurricane—think, if you are old enough, of French-hotel food of the ’50s. Too many luxurious restaurants were desperately trying to attract business by serving meals that fulfilled some illusory idea of what traditional cuisine should be. A local joke says it well: New Orleans has a thousand restaurants but only one menu."
http://www.gq.com/food-travel/alan-richman/200611/katrina-new-orleans-food