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Painting - take 2

Fabricator-General Scriptarius Fri 29 Apr 2011 02:41:00 No.14743371 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By:

Not sure what the hell happened to the first thread, but let's try this again.

My painting, how do I unfuck it?
Conversion questions also welcome.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 02:50:00 No.14743426 Report

Quoted By: >>14743481

yeah, was looking for your thread.

Where can I find that stormbolter on the middle model? That's awesome.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 02:52:00 No.14743431 Report

Quoted By: >>14743481 >>14743696

Thin your paints.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 02:52:00 No.14743435 Report

Quoted By: >>14743481

Obligatory "thin your paints" I say be more tidy, you have paint overlapping detail. Use washes too. Also scrape off mold lines.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 02:53:00 No.14743443 Report

Quoted By: >>14743481

Also your blanket red on the bodies its just too flat, pick out more details or toss in some contrasting colors to mix it up a bit

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 02:59:00 No.14743465 Report

Quoted By: >>14743489

Try black-lining? Basically just defining different parts by painting fine black lines between them. Works well with armour plates.

Fabricator-General Scriptarius

Fabricator-General Scriptarius Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:02:00 No.14743481 Report

Quoted By:

>>14743426
SW Terminator
>>14743431
>>14743435
Duly noted.
I did use washes, but I guess I need to slam on even more.
As for the detail fuckups, yeah, that's one part shaky hands two parts lack of attention.
And mold lines are just be being a lazy moron.
I'll try to do better next time.
>>14743443
I agree.
I'll need to try more washes to pick out the plate lines better (gryphone sepia maybe? Black just makes it look splodgy).
But yeah the uniform red is a bit much. Maybe the kneepads could be black or something.

Now then: do I keep these as a control group / benchmark and fix them up last, or do I keep working on them until they look proper and then move on to the next lot (Cyrus' scouts)?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:03:00 No.14743486 Report

Quoted By: >>14743533

Foundation paint red over what appears to be a black undercoat. or for a slightly richer colour (works great with yellow too) dwarf flesh or some other dark flesh tone as the first layer. You get a really good yellow that way.

Grey before white I've found works well too. Also, fuck GW white paint. And when it comes to highlighting, don't be afraid to be bold with them at first.

Fabricator-General Scriptarius

Fabricator-General Scriptarius Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:03:00 No.14743489 Report

Quoted By: >>14743546

>>14743465
What's the best way to do this?
Ultra-thin black and a tiny brush?
Thick non-runny black and an even tinier brush?
A thin marker?
Black wash?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:06:00 No.14743503 Report

Quoted By: >>14743533

Not to hijack OP's thread, but I don't have any appropriate images to make my own.

I've never done anything tabletop and haven't painted anything figurine related before, and I've got my very first Tau "starter" kit today together with a regular small brush, drybrush and some paints. Storebro also threw in 3 free tacmarines for me to practice on.

So, going with this, anyone got some advice for me?
I've got Skull white, Vomit brown and Scorched brown. Also have devlin mud wash.

I've already messed around abit with the first 2 marines but I have absolutely no idea as of what I'm doing.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:07:00 No.14743511 Report

Quoted By: >>14743557

Huzzah! Scriptus Maximus has seen fit to grace us with his presence once more!

All in all I say they don't look half bad. Maybe a bit of highlighting and a drybrush or two could help. Anyone here know any tips for... dunking? What is it called when you submerge the minis in a VERY thined down (10/1 water/paint ratio at the very least) mix? Anyway, I've seen good results from painting broad base colors (like you have already done), 'dunking' them in a watered down wash, and then finishing up with some drybrush work and highlighting.

I've even seen a guy get nice results on some Genestealers by dunking them in a stain (the stuff you use on wood to protect and color it).

Fabricator-General Scriptarius

Fabricator-General Scriptarius Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:11:00 No.14743533 Report

Quoted By:

>>14743486
Flesh under yellow? That's new for me, thanks.
Also, gotta look into some non-GW paints some day when I'm out shopping again.
>>14743503
It's perhaps best I don't give out painting tips, but I'm sure our painters will be happy to give some sound advice,

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:13:00 No.14743546 Report

Quoted By:

>>14743489
Thin paint (or liner. reaper, etc, sell lining paints) and a fine brush. That said, thinning the stuff too much can make it dry transparent. There should be a number of tutorials out there on the subject.

Jenova has a tutorial... but it doesn't really show it to its full potential... it's a bit rough. http://www.jenova.dk/Blacklining.htm

Fabricator-General Scriptarius

Fabricator-General Scriptarius Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:15:00 No.14743557 Report

Quoted By:

>>14743511
The closest I've heard to that is dipping orks/nids in woodstain to get the details to stand out more.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:25:00 No.14743601 Report

Quoted By: >>14743653

Slap some badab black on the metal parts. Greyphone Sepia or Devlan mud (only small traces) for the purity seals. Also give the eyes on the helmets a color that makes them stand out more, I'd prefer a highly visible green tone like scorpion green for those.

Fabricator-General Scriptarius

Fabricator-General Scriptarius Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:33:00 No.14743653 Report

Quoted By: >>14743737 >>14743765

>>14743601
Black on metal, mud on seals. Check.
The eyes are just placeholders until I get some green.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:36:00 No.14743672 Report

Quoted By: >>14743802

Script,

I want to make a sufficiently antiquated looking Land Raider- with a pulpit on top, and statue reliefs in the side, a real rolling church tank. I've determined the best way to make the "Reliefs" is to likely mount them inside the door frame on something similar to the pre heresy land raider- any suggestions on how to otherwise make the raider look sufficiently ornate?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:38:00 No.14743686 Report

Quoted By: >>14743802

I've had good luck mixing boltgun metal (well, one of the silvery metallics) with chaos black then heavily watering it down to use on metals parts. Makes a great wash and/or drybrush paint.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:38:00 No.14743689 Report

Quoted By: >>14743802

BATTLE BROTHERS. SPESS MEHREENS. TODAY TEH ENEMY IS AT OUR DOOR.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:40:00 No.14743696 Report

Quoted By: >>14743743 >>14743802

>>14743431
Anyone who says this phrase should automatically be banned for three days. It is trolling.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:47:00 No.14743737 Report

Quoted By:

>>14743653
I'm not a good painter myself but washes can do a lot for a model. All of the metal parts on this dread were painted with Boltgun Metal and then washed with Badab Black. I don't have a camera to show off my recent paintjobs but I don't think it looks too terrible, pic is like 8 months old now though and I have since then worked a lot on that dread and put on highlights/weathering etc.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:48:00 No.14743743 Report

Quoted By:

>>14743696
What, can't you thin your paints properly?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:51:00 No.14743765 Report

Quoted By: >>14743802

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:53:00 No.14743781 Report

Quoted By: >>14743810

Over 9000 hours in MSpaint.

Fabricator-General Scriptarius

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Fabricator-General Scriptarius Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:57:00 No.14743802 Report

Quoted By: >>14743818

>>14743672
You'll probably want to look at the Exorcist for your main sorce of inspiration and bits.
Beyond that, I'm not really sure what to suggest, other than dropping this pic.
>>14743686
>>14743765
Ok, I'll keep those in mind.
>>14743689
Not to distract from the topic at hand, but the Justicar's pose looks a bit odd. That's probably just the camera angle though.
>>14743696
It can also be very sound advice at times.

Fabricator-General Scriptarius

Fabricator-General Scriptarius Fri 29 Apr 2011 03:58:00 No.14743810 Report

Quoted By:

>>14743781
Awesome, thanks. That should help a bunch.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 04:00:00 No.14743818 Report

Quoted By: >>14743961

>>14743802
Thats a nice source of inspiration, thanks Scripty- when I get around to WIPs, mind if I post in a thread of yours for conversion insight?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 04:01:00 No.14743831 Report

Quoted By: >>14743961

Hey Script, have you gotten started on that Nightmare Icelus Dreadnought thing? And how do you afford all these minis man!? It's insane.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 04:02:00 No.14743832 Report

Quoted By: >>14743868 >>14743910

ok /tg/, this thread has made me want to finish painting some of my Iron Hands,

but I've forgotten how to paint eyes, Is it 3 tiers of colour?

Dark red, Red, white?

because I think I remember it being that, but it's been about a year...

also what is a good colour for Iron Hands eyes, other than red I've seen a few electric blue ones posted, but I'm not really sure I like how bright they are.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 04:05:00 No.14743856 Report

Quoted By: >>14743961

Nice mold lines.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 04:08:00 No.14743868 Report

Quoted By:

>>14743832
I paint my blood angels visor eyes scorpion green and wash them with Thraka green, after that I sometimes freshen up the central area with more scorpion green. Looks well enough and isn't that much work.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 04:19:00 No.14743910 Report

Quoted By:

>>14743832
http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/showthread.php?t=18193

Fabricator-General Scriptarius

Fabricator-General Scriptarius Fri 29 Apr 2011 04:28:00 No.14743961 Report

Quoted By: >>14743983

>>14743818
Looking forward to them bro. Hope it turns out well.
>>14743831
Not yet. The second question is the reason why. I'm a bit low on money right now due to being unemployed and whatnot, so I'm keeping new non-commission projects on the backburner until things pick up.
Speaking of which, anyone want to help a dude out and commission something?
>le details here
>http://adeptusscriptarius.blogspot.com/
>>14743856
Yes, thanks, those were pointed out a few times.
Also, good list. Saved.
Even though I don't agree with using wire cutters to cut metal legs. I'd use a saw.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 04:32:00 No.14743983 Report

Quoted By: >>14744048

>>14743961
Using a saw can force you to press hard in awkward angles bending other limbs on the model or making the pliers holding the model create flat spots.

Something that attacks the only spot with no pressure anywhere else on the model is why cutters do the job well. They also cut straight to the middle, while a saw can deviate if you're not careful. Use power tools that close to your hands/flinging metal everywhere at your own risk.

Fabricator-General Scriptarius

Fabricator-General Scriptarius Fri 29 Apr 2011 04:39:00 No.14744048 Report

Quoted By:

>>14743983
Guess I've just been using bad cutters then. They tended to leave a really ugly stump.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 05:10:00 No.14744233 Report

Quoted By:

Needle file instead of blade for taking off mold lines. Scraped lines are nearly as obvious as mold line themselves because they have hard edges.

Never paint metaltics directly, drybrush them onto the primed model before doing starting of the other colours.

Be more tidy, if you can't be tidy or are in a hurry hide the edges between colours with black or well-placed washes.

Thin your white/bone. Multiple thin layer for yellows and whites because that kind of pigment is never opaque. Hard to tell because of the photo, they might be fine.

No highlights. try a 2:1 mix of the original colour:white along the edges. Can sometimes get away with just highlighting using the original colour if your shading/washing is dark enough.

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Painting - take 2