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Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 06:55:00 No.14745191 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By:

I would like to start a thread where we offer tips on assembling models, painting, acquiring the related supplies, etc.

For example, what's the best bang for your buck when getting plastic cement? Is it really an $8 tube of 20 grams from GW? Are Testor paints any good?

I'd offer a tip if I could, but I'm very new to miniatures.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 07:07:00 No.14745319 Report

Quoted By: >>14747239

I use Testors glue for my plastic models. It's fairly cheap, lasts forever (and never dries up, leaks or gets clogged in my experience), and holds firm. The only problem is that there's no way to instantly dry it. Still, that helps when assembling, say, space marines where you want to get the arms into just the right position and want to fiddle with them a bit while they're drying.

Their paints aren't that good for minis, though.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 07:09:00 No.14745341 Report

Quoted By:

Get humbrol Polystyrene Cement, preferably in a needle-tipped bottle.

Costs 40% less than GW's, less waste and spillage and easier application.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 07:16:00 No.14745411 Report

Quoted By:

Needle-tipped bottle is the main thing for me when it comes to plastic cement. If it happens to say Humbrol or Revell or whatever on the bottle doesn't matter to any real degree.

I also appear to be the only one around who's fond of two-part epoxy for large chunks of metal (say, and old dragon or so).

Emperor Eden

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Emperor Eden Fri 29 Apr 2011 07:21:00 No.14745453 Report

Quoted By:

I'm all about the brush on plastic weld.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 07:22:00 No.14745464 Report

Quoted By: >>14745526

How about zap-a-gap?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 07:28:00 No.14745526 Report

Quoted By:

>>14745464

Isn't that a superglue?

Never use superglue for plastic.

Way more hassle, breaks easier and doesn't allow for any bending or posing after applying the glue.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 07:32:00 No.14745556 Report

Quoted By:

Zap a gap is my favorite. Bonds everything to pretty much everything else.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 10:01:00 No.14747148 Report

Quoted By: >>14747239

Thanks guys. Keep 'em coming. You'll be helping lots of people make nice minis!

What are some brands of paint that are Citadel quality without Citadel price?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 10:03:00 No.14747183 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 10:06:00 No.14747217 Report

Quoted By:

How do I get the tarnished metal look after applying metallic paints? I'm doing a flintlock model. It's not a mini though.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 29 Apr 2011 10:08:00 No.14747239 Report

Quoted By:

>>14745319

I like this glue except that my tubes tend to get clogged. I haven't bought one in a while, so maybe they've improved the design lately.

Also, the mouth of the "nozzle" is a bit large, IMO, for the amount of glue you really want on a 28mm infantry model. Could be smaller and allow for a bit more precision.

I actually like that it takes a while to try, for just the reason you said. If you realize a few minutes after setting a model down that you don't like the position of a part, you can adjust it easily. Once it does dry it holds things together very, very well.

>>14747148

I like Reaper paints. They're only marginally cheaper, mind; GW doesn't charge a ton more than most model paint manufacturers, with the difference usually being ~$0.50 US per pot, so I'd say go with what you like, and if that's GW, you're not being robbed or anything.

I use the shit out of GW Foundation paints and washes. No other company makes anything like Foundation paints IME, and the new-ish GW washes are genuinely superior to most, cf Devlan Magic.

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